Does this look like a lack of phosphorus?

[Sfgrow]

I’m in veg getting ready to flip but the plants don’t look too happy. What do you think is wrong with these plants?

 

[Bdubs]

Soil is too wet Or lack of oxygen to roots. You have lower leaf count growth. Some 3 and a couple 4 leaf. She is stressing at the root zone.

Pot size and age of the plants?
Root bound?

 

[Bdubs]

It is hard to tell the color fade on the leafs as it could be the red and blue from your light? They look somewhat pink tinted. In that case it would be very first signs of phosphorus deficiency. And it isn’t an absorption or Ph issue due to it not burning splotches or causing a lockout. So you can be safe to add phosphorus to your mix or bump it up a bit in this case.

 

[Bdubs]

Notice how your mode spacing it tighter up nearer the top, closer to the light? You’ve had your lights too high or set high the whole time and she is just now getting to the intensity to stack tight nodes. Next grow you can lower the light distance and get tighter node spacing. As when. You push flower into stretch phase, those nodes will stretch even farther apart. Roughly the same % of plant stretch, in internodal spacing. In other words, you will have nice top swirl stacks. If you want more yield, veg longer and allow more node stacks as your plants Tops just now started seeing adequate light intensity/photon packet delivery. She is demanding phosphorus because of this and is ready to make more nodes which takes P and K respectively. Cal mag will be in demand as photon delivery increases (light an absorption rates, light intensity) as it is a key contributor to her ability to process photons. Most nodes below the canopy will be small buds as they are going to be far from the light source and reduced intensity, stealing energy from your prized tops and will under develop if left shaded or just too low to get enough light.

 

[figolus]

Hello,

I see that the stems are red on certain leaves, after that it could be due to
1/ the genetics of the plant
2/ heat stress
3/ stress due to light
4/overwatering.
5/ ph.
6/ a phosphorus deficiency

 

[Bdubs]

It is a simple mistake. But for tight nodes you want close light, low intensity light. Slows growth rates from reduced intensity and makes tighter nodes from closer light source. The hardest part to manage is when you increase intensity to flower and increase light distance as you go along with this process. As any bump up of light distance, induces stretch. So you are responsible for that stretching when you move the light source away so control of those light distance moves and node spacing should be put into account. Daily Light Intergal comes into play when working bell lighting. And you begin to get into advanced lighting control.

For best results just kee what intensity you had this run, but drop that light to be the same distance as your light is now, to your very tops. As they are right now. This should help you next run to get better node spacing and less stretch.

 

[Bdubs]

Red colors on the stem are more of a signal to temps and environment imo. When temps are proper, you should see some red on your stems of leafs and red/purple on your main base. If you have bright green, you have too fast of growth and temps too high and/or stretch is happening. In turn makes for lanky stems and will require supports when in full flower production. Red is bulking of the stem and cell wall production. This is an IMO deal with colors on leafs. But I do know that bright green or lack of any pigment to the stems is a sign of faster than optimal growth and a weaker cell wall.

 

[GreenNotYellow]

Nitrogen or Sulfur but not phosphorus

 

[Bdubs]

Red on the leaf stems*

 

[Bdubs]

I always get red pigment on my stems. And is in no way a bad sign of anything. It’s when you see bright green and no pigment when you’ve been growing at too fast of rates. The stems have not developed thick cell walls when you have those vibrant colors as focus is on stretching rather than bulking.

 

[Bdubs]

The red/purple colors of the stems are older, more developed growth. Stronger. Notice the newer growth on the side shoots are bright green. Newer growth that is stretching. That coloring is not abnormal, it is proper growth rates and stronger structure.

 

[figolus]

hello, I never said it was bad. I made an observation and put forward a possibility.

 

[figolus]

I may have expressed myself poorly or made myself misunderstood. Sorry

 

[Bdubs]

The sheer weight…LST or natural (OPs case his leafs are elongated from low intensity to access the light, getting longer and heavier, making thicker cell wall production and therefore turning purple.

 

[Bdubs]

I may have expressed myself poorly or made myself misunderstood. Sorry

No sir you are fine. You just spurred a good side topic that all had to do with OP “what is wrong with these plants”.

 

[figolus]

Thanks you very much

 

[Bdubs]

It is a simple mistake. But for tight nodes you want close light, low intensity light. Slows growth rates from reduced intensity and makes tighter nodes from closer light source. The hardest part to manage is when you increase intensity to flower and increase light distance as you go along with this process. As any bump up of light distance, induces stretch. So you are responsible for that stretching when you move the light source away so control of those light distance moves and node spacing should be put into account. Daily Light Intergal comes into play when working bell lighting. And you begin to get into advanced lighting control.

For best results just kee what intensity you had this run, but drop that light to be the same distance as your light is now, to your very tops. As they are right now. This should help you next run to get better node spacing and less stretch.

That’s how I learned my lights and plant reactivity to distance and intensity %. Control stretch by supplying enough light that she can stay at that distance and not clear light distance for around a week, and not burn. Let her grow and leafs pray as she bridges the gap and then bump her to your set distance again and leave it for another week. Praying is good and the closer to taco you get on your leafs, the slower she will stretch (but she will make foliage regardless of upward growth). So the goal is to have intensity right for the distance you choose to supply the light required. Too much intensity she stays low and foliage grows to process more light. Too little light and she stretches to get more light. Balance it out and set proper distance to intensity and maintain in such a way that doesn’t induce stretch. Indoors we control stretch/upward growth rates, in this manner. Intensity to light source distance and how/when you move/adjust them. To maintain proper rates. And this tips into environmental factors as well. Because temperature is also growth rates. And so there is a balance in all things to truly achieve proper growth for the goals of many cannabis growers. Tighter node spacing, stacked colas less effort or guess work. All things are a process and all things require overall understanding and applying to one another to get what we crave.

 

[Bdubs]

I made mistakes this run of setting my light too low for my chosen intensity. If I adjust distance max set, I will induce stretch and increase node spacing pre stretch phase. I’ll level with you as to how common lighting habits makes a difference to end product.

I’ll do better next time and try a little longer distance and possibly a slight reduction of intensity. I have opposite problems this run.