So overwhelmed, I need a mentor! :)

[cannafarmer420]

Yes, mix the perlite and the amendments into the soil before you fill the bags. Later on you "top dress" by adding the dry nutes to the top of the soil and scratching them into the surface, then water thoroughly. Always start the seedlings in a seedling mix in a small container, like a solo cup or a 4" plastic nursery pot. Once they get 3-4 sets of leaves and a good root system, transplant into their final home. You don't want to put the seeds directly into the final pot, for a couple reasons, first the soil may be a little "hot" for brand new seedlings, and second it's really hard to properly water a seedling in a big container.

For a top dress I mix it into a couple inch layer of soil a couple days ahead of time and then I add it to the pot. It's way easier and zero smell

 

[Newty]

Are these all mixed together with the water? If so this seems pretty simple.

Yes, you just mix them with your water. I have 1 gallon jugs that I premix my water and nutrients in and pour into my water cans when I need to water. I find it easier to mix up 6 gallons at a time rather then mixing every single watering.

It's very simple and being I use Fox Farm soil as well, I can tell you the Flora Series nutrients work well with the Ocean Forest soil.

I don't use dry ammendment or add anything else to my soil, just the Flora Nutes.
Very easy process and less time consuming then how some grow.

 

[PianoStan]

What is the best method to allow air into the bottom without allowing light in? I can run a 4" vent hose through one of the holes, or open one of the square bottom windows. Both are against a wall, the back one has a window above it.... the right side is exposed to the room. I'm afraid the wall will constrict air in.

Run the 4-inch vent hose through one of the holes in the bottom of the tent. But bend one of the ends 180 degrees, so that outside light can't mess with your 12/12 flowering schedule. I don't know how close to the wall the side of the tent is, but if you have a couple of inches, it should be fine. The fan motor will create a vacuum in the tent, and the air will flow.

Don't just open the vent flap by the window. If you do, when the 12/12 flowering schedule starts, outside light will interfere with your grow. Especially since there is a window just above it. And then you will be scrambling to insert the vent hose anyway. You can open those vent flaps during the vegtative phase for extra air flow, but you will want the vent hose once to go for flowering.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

The OP is running a Mars Hydro 3x3 with a Mars Hydro FC3000-Evo and UV, IR, and RR supplement bars.

I was actually wondering what size tent you have with your two fans.

 

[Newty]

I was actually wondering what size tent you have with your two fans.

My bad.
I run a 8'x4'x80" and recently added a 55"x28"x80"
8x4 has 8" exhaust 6" intake
55x28 has 6" exhaust 4" intake
I put furnace duct register boots on the intake to help funnel the air in and have cut to fit MERV8 filters I tape on the register boots.
I also have 2 different lung rooms because I have grates in my floor that pass to downstairs ceiling so the intakes also help when I need to pull air from a different lung room. I also like that running intakes seems to change the environment quicker when needed. Whether it be cooling, heating, humdifing or dehumidifying, changes happen quicker with active ventilation vs passive ventilation, at least in my experience.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

Im not gonna say that living soil growers should be ph’ing their water, because as i said, the biological processes in the root zone of living soils will buffer for most people. Most. I just have issue with organic growers assuming that everyones ph out of the tap is 6.0-7.5. Most people will be in this area or pretty close to it. But ive seen people with 9+, also people with sub 5.5, and all had immediate improvement when they helped their plants along with ph’d water.

I understand and basically agree. Information is good. Alternatively, however, I hesitate to advise new growers to spend more than they need to spend, or worry more than they need to worry. Chances are, tap water from a public utility is fine, especially if it's drinkable. Sure, it's betting on the favorite to win, but many decisions are made that way. There's no harm in checking the pH, but it's likely to be of no benefit when growing organically. I think that's all some of us are saying. I would advise pH testing and potential adjustment for synthetic nutrients. The difference is why we need to know the style of growing.

Growing in living soil is similar to but not the same as growing organically. I grow organically, but I don't grow in living soil. It isn't a trivial distinction. I suppose I get a bit defensive about my style of growing, though. It's often misunderstood.

Biological processes don't buffer. It's about mycorrhiza, which is a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship between a fungus and a plant. The plant makes organic molecules by photosynthesis and supplies them to the fungus in the form of sugars or lipids, while the fungus supplies the plant with water and mineral nutrients, such as phosphorus, taken from the soil. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycorrhiza) Because nutrients for the plant are supplied by the fungus, pH is irrelevant if the fungus thrives.

Ive seen people start blueberries in tents. I start stuff for my garden in my tent.

Oh, I start other types of plants in my tents, too. Starting isn't quite the same as growing to harvest, though. I'd love to grow blueberries, but, like I said, the bears like them. We have lots of wildlife where we live. I once looked up from gardening and found myself looking at what must have been a 10- or 12-point buck. He was about four feet away from me and looking at me square in the eyes. I decided to let him win the day and I backed away slowly. He certainly wasn't going to give ground. Few things can be grown here that the deer or other critters won't eat.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

My bad.

No problem. No worries. Thanks.

I run a 8'x4'x80" and recently added a 55"x28"x80"
8x4 has 8" exhaust 6" intake
55x28 has 6" exhaust 4" intake
I put furnace duct register boots on the intake to help funnel the air in and have cut to fit MERV8 filters I tape on the register boots.
I also have 2 different lung rooms because I have grates in my floor that pass to downstairs ceiling so the intakes also help when I need to pull air from a different lung room. I also like that running intakes seems to change the environment quicker when needed. Whether it be cooling, heating, humdifing or dehumidifying, changes happen quicker with active ventilation vs passive ventilation, at least in my experience.

I asked because I think the size (or volume) of the tent matters. Your tents are larger than mine. Even so, I've noticed the different sizes seem to have different ventilation issues. I'm only using one fan on top, but have thought about using an intake fan. At this point, I'm still thinking. My smallest tent always runs hot, and I don't know why, but it seems the smaller the tent the more challenging the ventilation. Thanks for the info. No need to hijack the thread, though.

 

[Stokes]

Are these all mixed together with the water? If so this seems pretty simple.

Noted. I can remove them before transplanting if better.

I understand and basically agree. Information is good. Alternatively, however, I hesitate to advise new growers to spend more than they need to spend, or worry more than they need to worry. Chances are, tap water from a public utility is fine, especially if it's drinkable. Sure, it's betting on the favorite to win, but many decisions are made that way. There's no harm in checking the pH, but it's likely to be of no benefit when growing organically. I think that's all some of us are saying. I would advise pH testing and potential adjustment for synthetic nutrients. The difference is why we need to know the style of growing.

Growing in living soil is similar to but not the same as growing organically. I grow organically, but I don't grow in living soil. It isn't a trivial distinction. I suppose I get a bit defensive about my style of growing, though. It's often misunderstood.

Biological processes don't buffer. It's about mycorrhiza, which is a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship between a fungus and a plant. The plant makes organic molecules by photosynthesis and supplies them to the fungus in the form of sugars or lipids, while the fungus supplies the plant with water and mineral nutrients, such as phosphorus, taken from the soil. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycorrhiza) Because nutrients for the plant are supplied by the fungus, pH is irrelevant if the fungus thrives.


Oh, I start other types of plants in my tents, too. Starting isn't quite the same as growing to harvest, though. I'd love to grow blueberries, but, like I said, the bears like them. We have lots of wildlife where we live. I once looked up from gardening and found myself looking at what must have been a 10- or 12-point buck. He was about four feet away from me and looking at me square in the eyes. I decided to let him win the day and I backed away slowly. He certainly wasn't going to give ground. Few things can be grown here that the deer or other critters won't eat.

I grow organically all the time. Never living soil, it seems like a money pit. But biological processes absolutely effect rootzone ph, whether its through byproducts released through excrement or enzymes released upon death. The same processes take place whether top dressing with dry amendments or the the even slower release of living soils

Either way, ive never done a grow in living soil, nor do i have a phd in anything related to botany, therefor, if i could even remember what we’re arguing about, i wouldnt have enough scientific data to form an educated opinion of it, even if i cared to.

All i said was that some people have to adjust their ph lol

 

[WickedMichelle]

Run the 4-inch vent hose through one of the holes in the bottom of the tent.

I can do this! :)

Oh, sorry if youve already got a mentor. My bad

No not really... but I am grabbing bits and pieces of what I can understand.... Since I have decided to go with Ocean Forest soil I guess I am looking at those that use this too.

It's very simple and being I use Fox Farm soil as well, I can tell you the Flora Series nutrients work well with the Ocean Forest soil.

I see a 4 bottle set on Amazon for 56.00. I found perlite for around 14.00. I have not looked up rice hulls. Do I need all of this? Should I use synthetic nutrients with organic soil?

Always start the seedlings in a seedling mix in a small container, like a solo cup or a 4" plastic nursery pot. Once they get 3-4 sets of leaves and a good root system, transplant into their final home.

I purchased those little peat cups for seeding, then into a small pot until bushy. I have 5 gal canvas bags for the final. Isn't that too big for such a small plant? I was thinking of using the small pot next to the peat cups I bought in the image above for a 2nd pot. Get it a good 6-10 inches and a bit bushy before planting in the large 5 gal. Is that wrong?

IMPORTANT HERE!
Looks like I will need an Amazon order for nutrients.

1. So do I just need perlite? Or do I just need the Flora Series or do I need both. Both would be around 70.00. Do I need these now?
2. What about Vermiculite and Clay pebbles - These were recommended on the perlite amazon video to be mixed together.
3. Would mixing the soil, perlite,Vermiculite and Clay pebbles be enough? or do I still need nutrients in the water too?
4. I will get Ph strips to test the water and/or the watering mix of nutrients.
5. Should I get some aquarium gravel for the bottom of the pots for drainage?
6. Out of everything above, what is the most important. Still on a budget LOL.

I hope that just liquid nutrients will be sufficient, trying to mix all the dry together for 3 five gallon pots will be a bit much for me in this small apartment. I do not have a lot of extra storage for the left overs as well as a container to mix 15 gal of soil. LOL.


Fingers crossed!!

 

[Stokes]

I can do this! :)

No not really... but I am grabbing bits and pieces of what I can understand.... Since I have decided to go with Ocean Forest soil I guess I am looking at those that use this too.

I see a 4 bottle set on Amazon for 56.00. I found perlite for around 14.00. I have not looked up rice hulls. Do I need all of this? Should I use synthetic nutrients with organic soil?

I purchased those little peat cups for seeding, then into a small pot until bushy. I have 5 gal canvas bags for the final. Isn't that too big for such a small plant? I was thinking of using the small pot next to the peat cups I bought in the image above for a 2nd pot. Get it a good 6-10 inches and a bit bushy before planting in the large 5 gal. Is that wrong?

IMPORTANT HERE!
Looks like I will need an Amazon order for nutrients.

1. So do I just need perlite? Or do I just need the Flora Series or do I need both. Both would be around 70.00. Do I need these now?
2. What about Vermiculite and Clay pebbles - These were recommended on the perlite amazon video to be mixed together.
3. Would mixing the soil, perlite,Vermiculite and Clay pebbles be enough? or do I still need nutrients in the water too?
4. I will get Ph strips to test the water and/or the watering mix of nutrients.
5. Should I get some aquarium gravel for the bottom of the pots for drainage?
6. Out of everything above, what is the most important. Still on a budget LOL.

I hope that just liquid nutrients will be sufficient, trying to mix all the dry together for 3 five gallon pots will be a bit much for me in this small apartment. I do not have a lot of extra storage for the left overs as well as a container to mix 15 gal of soil. LOL.


Fingers crossed!!

Do you have a grow shop near you? Amazon is notorious for sending out preopened/busted to shit nutrients.

 

[Newty]

I see a 4 bottle set on Amazon for 56.00. I found perlite for around 14.00. I have not looked up rice hulls. Do I need all of this? Should I use synthetic nutrients with organic soil?

Nothing wrong with using synthetic nutrients with organic soil.
You don't need perlite or rice hulls, you can add them if you want. Happy Frog soil and Ocean Forest soil already have some perlite in them, I add no additional.

I just like to keep it simple, if you want to add more to your soil then that's your choice. Experimenting is not a bad thing. It's your first grow in awhile so in my opinion, you should keep it simple and get a couple grows under your belt.

Whatever style and techniques you decide to use, you have a great community here to help you along the way!

This is all I use and have for many grows.
3 Gallon pots
Ocean Forest Soil
Happy Frog Soil
Flora Series nutrients plus CALiMAGic
Tap water filtered through a Zero Water filter

 

[WickedMichelle]

Do you have a grow shop near you? Amazon is notorious for sending out preopened/busted to shit nutrients.

Not really. My next day off is not until Friday. Seeds will be here Wed.

I think there is one not too far from my work but getting there is difficult on a bus.

 

[Oldchucky]

All perlite is his puffed up pieces of volcanic glass! Just AIDS aeration and drainage to the soil. Keeps it from becoming too compacted! I would add some even though FF Has some! Just my two cents!

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

All perlite is his puffed up pieces of volcanic glass! Just AIDS aeration and drainage to the soil. Keeps it from becoming too compacted! I would add some even though FF Has some! Just my two cents!

Ditto


The more perlite you can reasonably get away with, and the quicker you can have a wet dry cycle turn around, the faster cannabis will grow. Pretty much 1:1

However, too much will lead to a nightmare situation when you get on into flower and your plant is wilting every other day lol. In soil i tent to try and have a gallon of root space per ounce of expected yield for whatever given veg times. And i try to have roughly 25-30% of that volume perlite. Often more. I gauge perlite levels in my mixes based on how heavy the dry mix is, compared to the mix at field capacity. (Google soil field capacity and you may find yourself in some very educational rabbit holes as well). Im not always using the same soil materials along side the perlite, so i dont follow a given ratio. I go by moisture field capacity differences. Even bag to bag, with same brand soils, you'll start to notice drifting tendencies, even in quality stuff, if you go by moisture field capacity, and you can increase your consistency a lot with that information.

I always got better results in soil using very high volumes of perlite with comparatively high container volumes vs. lower volumes of perlite and lower container volumes. Cannabis plants, especially indicas, are big fans of well drained, non arid soils.


If you go 50% perlite, and keep on your wet/dry cycles like a boss as well as quit your day job, you can actually keep plants right on the heels of hydroponic growth rates and yields. You just gotta keep on your A game start to finish. Be religious and dedicated. That's a lotta work though.

 

[Oldchucky]

Agree, wholeheartedly! I grow outside in hot dry conditions, and also agree that it is possible to over perlite! Leads to a lot of watering! L O L! But you have to have those dry wet cycles!

 

[WickedMichelle]

If you go 50% perlite 50% peat, and keep on your wet/dry cycles, you can actually keep plants right on the heels of hydroponic growth rates. You just gotta keep on your A game start to finish. Be religious.

Im new... I have "NO" game

 

[Oldchucky]

Don’t sweat it too much! You don’t have to be exact! I think 20 to 25% will get you in the ballpark! But I don’t use Have any experience with the number 4 perlite! I go with the cheap bulk perlite from the landscaping store! 20 bucks for 4 ft.³ of it! Works outdoors! Don’t know about indoors! I added to all my soil from Seedling soil to the intermediate soil to the final soil! You probably won’t be complicating it like that! Hang in there! Number four is probably better for small pots indoors! Less likely to have a lot float to the surface!

 

[Freeze7]

All I can say is WOW! No wonder I could never get a good grow in the past. There is so much more than planting a seed and watching it grow.

I am getting ready for my first grow and going a better route. I made a small investment in the tools. Purchased some seeds. On my next day off I am heading to ACE to get some soil, pots and nutrients (provided they carry what I have been reading are good).

Unlike other things I buy tools for and jump in... mistakes here are time consuming. An entire grow period can be wasted on lack of knowledge. Where I am not expecting a professional grade grow, I am realistic, I would like to have a successful 1st grow. For example.... I purchased seeds with higher THC levels fully expecting to get less until I get more experienced. I have a very high tolerance as I am a daily smoker so I hope that I can at least grow a crop that will have some affect on me.

Where I am getting confused is there are so many different responses to a situation. It can be hard to find an answer at times. The whole chemical thing still has me baffled. LOL.

If anyone here would be willing to help me I can trade services. I am a semi retired graphic designer including photo and video editing. I also program in PHP and more recently, 3D animation and modeling.

I am starting with 3 seeds (if they all sprout lol I have 2 extra in case) Different strains all with very similar climates and grow periods. I hope that nutrients will also be similar, this area is my most problematic. I have also seen nutrients that will boost the flavor. ( I wanna say also add flavor? if I read correctly).

My goals are:

A fair yield​

Decent THC level​

Not have to rely on someone else to get my supply.​

Most important - Does not taste homegrown!!! ​

​

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help

Are you growing indoors or outdoors?

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

I grow organically all the time. Never living soil, it seems like a money pit. But biological processes absolutely effect rootzone ph, whether its through byproducts released through excrement or enzymes released upon death. The same processes take place whether top dressing with dry amendments or the the even slower release of living soils

Okay.

Either way, ive never done a grow in living soil, nor do i have a phd in anything related to botany, therefor, if i could even remember what we’re arguing about, i wouldnt have enough scientific data to form an educated opinion of it, even if i cared to.

I didn't think we were arguing. Miscommunicating, perhaps. You're right. The fungus is alive and does what living things do. I think understanding the difference between organic versus synthetic nutrients is important for newbies. It was for me when I began growing.

All i said was that some people have to adjust their ph lol

Yes. Some do.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

Don’t sweat it too much! You don’t have to be exact! I think 20 to 25% will get you in the ballpark! But I don’t use Have any experience with the number 4 perlite! I go with the cheap bulk perlite from the landscaping store! 20 bucks for 4 ft.³ of it! Works outdoors! Don’t know about indoors! I added to all my soil from Seedling soil to the intermediate soil to the final soil! You probably won’t be complicating it like that! Hang in there! Number four is probably better for small pots indoors! Less likely to have a lot float to the surface!

Yep! We use perlite indoors. With the FFOF, 20% to 30% perlite in the mix should be okay.

@WickedMichelle - Do you plan to use fabric pots? I use 5-gallon fabric.