The problem with big pots.

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Gmix

Gmix

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So I tried the plant in a big pot straight away and am not impressed.

The soil has enough moisture in it to last ages without watering it wasn’t wet just normal however because it’s in a large pot it’s taking to long to dry so I can water in food without adding unnecessary water

Going back to transplanting it never caused problems like this or stressed them to much not when your so used to transplanting you don’t tend to make errors that would stress them like being rough with them

Wadda you think open the bag for a while and stilck it somewhere dry so it’s dry by the time I use it
 
LoveGrowingIt

LoveGrowingIt

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The soil has enough moisture in it to last ages without watering it wasn’t wet just normal however because it’s in a large pot it’s taking to long to dry so I can water in food without adding unnecessary water
I've had that problem of not being able to feed the plant. I ended up transplanting, too. When I did, I noticed the roots didn't make it down to the lower part of the pot where the water was. Ever since, I've wondered if the wet/dry watering method is always best. So, I've been experimenting with other methods.

Wadda you think open the bag for a while and stilck it somewhere dry so it’s dry by the time I use it
I keep my soil moist when it's not being used. I turn it, too. Rehydrating desiccated soil can be a slow process. I recycle my soil and have a three-bin method. One bin for soil that will be used next. One bin for soil that was used last. And one bin for soil I'm using for my current grow. I save extra soil to use for top dressing nutrients.
 
ArtfulCodger

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I think it depends a lot on what system you're running. With synthetics, I find smaller pots much easier, but I see growers running living soil or outdoors in huge pots with glorious results.
 
Otto Bonn

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I've had that problem of not being able to feed the plant. I ended up transplanting, too. When I did, I noticed the roots didn't make it down to the lower part of the pot where the water was. Ever since, I've wondered if the wet/dry watering method is always best. So, I've been experimenting with other methods.


I keep my soil moist when it's not being used. I turn it, too. Rehydrating desiccated soil can be a slow process. I recycle my soil and have a three-bin method. One bin for soil that will be used next. One bin for soil that was used last. And one bin for soil I'm using for my current grow. I save extra soil to use for top dressing nutrients.
I'm implementing a recycle system now too, do you add lime, azomite or anything during the 3 bin method? I'm a big fan of composting but have yet to integrate any into my grows other than adding it to 'in the ground' plants.
 
N

Natep

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I have five plant in a 4x4 bed. I believe it approx 140 gallons. I use an eco wit moisture meter. When it gets below 35% I water.
 
Pilted

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I'm all about over sized pots, but I start in a solo cup, then a 1 gallon, then a 7 gallon. 7-10 days water/feed is my goal at this point. I try to use that peet.moss as a reservoir, it holds the nutrients well imo.
 
C

coloneljoint

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if the soil is retaining too much moisture in the big pot, letting it dry out a bit by opening the bag is a reasonable approach. Ensure good ventilation and monitor the soil's moisture levels as you go. It should help balance things out
 
cannafarmer420

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So I tried the plant in a big pot straight away and am not impressed.

The soil has enough moisture in it to last ages without watering it wasn’t wet just normal however because it’s in a large pot it’s taking to long to dry so I can water in food without adding unnecessary water

Going back to transplanting it never caused problems like this or stressed them to much not when your so used to transplanting you don’t tend to make errors that would stress them like being rough with them

Wadda you think open the bag for a while and stilck it somewhere dry so it’s dry by the time I use it
I go from solo to 7 gallon but I don't run autos, I get the best roots that way. Just gotta water right
 
cannafarmer420

cannafarmer420

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I think it depends a lot on what system you're running. With synthetics, I find smaller pots much easier, but I see growers running living soil or outdoors in huge pots with glorious results.
Well said. I beleive using liquid nutes is a huge handicap personally. It's so limiting as far as forcing you to water in order to feed. I like the way nature does it.
 
HerbalEdu

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i m the opposite, i don't like transplanting or germinating seeds in small cup. i find keeping an even moisture level in soil is much easier in larger pots than smaller pots. I also find it's easier to overwater seeds in small cups at the time of germination than in larger pots.

so directly in their final 6L (1,6 gal) pots
 
Gtglicky3

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I’m on my 3rd run of Autoflowers and in my experience starting them in small pots close to the size of a solo cup for 9 days to get a little root ball started and then putting them in bigger pots worked a lot better for me this time around. My 1st run with Autos I started in there final pots and they didn’t do that good
 
LoveGrowingIt

LoveGrowingIt

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I'm implementing a recycle system now too, do you add lime, azomite or anything during the 3 bin method? I'm a big fan of composting but have yet to integrate any into my grows other than adding it to 'in the ground' plants.
Lime contains calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate and increases the soil pH, so, instead, I use gypsum for calcium and Epsom salt for magnesium. I adjust each one individually when the plants show deficiencies. Otherwise, I top dress amendments and nutrients at four-week intervals. In addition to gypsum and Epsom salt, I add azomite, Gai Green nutrients and Mykos or Great White. I only amend the soil I'm using for my current grow to avoid making the soil too hot.

The soil is always composting. At the end of each grow, the used soil goes into a bin for composting and renewal. I stir it occasionally and make sure it's moist. I began my rookie grows with FF Happy Frog (and some Ocean Forest) which contains a lot of organic material that composts slowly. I also amend the soil with additional organics, such as earthworm castings. Sometimes, I add defoliated fan leaves to the mix.
 
Otto Bonn

Otto Bonn

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Lime contains calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate and increases the soil pH, so, instead, I use gypsum for calcium and Epsom salt for magnesium. I adjust each one individually when the plants show deficiencies. Otherwise, I top dress amendments and nutrients at four-week intervals. In addition to gypsum and Epsom salt, I add azomite, Gai Green nutrients and Mykos or Great White. I only amend the soil I'm using for my current grow to avoid making the soil too hot.

The soil is always composting. At the end of each grow, the used soil goes into a bin for composting and renewal. I stir it occasionally and make sure it's moist. I began my rookie grows with FF Happy Frog (and some Ocean Forest) which contains a lot of organic material that composts slowly. I also amend the soil with additional organics, such as earthworm castings. Sometimes, I add defoliated fan leaves to the mix.
great info, thanks. I'd really like to start using dry amendments for my grows but haven't taken the leap yet.
I use calimag now (small dose each feed) but have used epsom in the past, do you integrate both gypsum and epsom as a top dress?
I bought some azomite to use when I rejuve my old soil, how often do you top dress with that?
I'm using Myco+ during feeds in veg, is Mykos a dry amendment as well?
Sorry for all the questions, this really interests me!
 
S

storz

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SIPs--never going back to conventional watering from the top down. My 2 centavos
 
N

Natep

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I don’t believe this is a pot size problem. I believe this is about your soil not having proper nutrients and having to supplement with synthetics. I put rooted clones straight into 140 gallon bed. I don’t have to water for weeks.
 
Gmix

Gmix

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Lmfoa
I don’t even use synthetics

I’ve got no time to explain what you are not understanding not with C o vid at the same time
 
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Gmix

Gmix

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great info, thanks. I'd really like to start using dry amendments for my grows but haven't taken the leap yet.
I use calimag now (small dose each feed) but have used epsom in the past, do you integrate both gypsum and epsom as a top dress?
I bought some azomite to use when I rejuve my old soil, how often do you top dress with that?
I'm using Myco+ during feeds in veg, is Mykos a dry amendment as well?
Sorry for all the questions, this really interests me!
Sorry bud I’ve co vid ( you can’t write it as one word or it change to flu )
So I might not be the greatest help

Basically my dry food is guano the others I’m not to up on as I’ve grown with rabbit poo or guano almost all my growing life
 
Gmix

Gmix

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In fact I don’t think I should come back till I feel better

Good luck to you all
 
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