Yellowing leaves and brown spots

[Mambae]

download the photone app, if youre getting over 350 for a par reading at the top of that plant i’ll send you a fem seed or two regs of your choice from my collection

You dont need a lot of light for veg. But If it has something to do with the light its not because of intensity, its because of lack of food.

ok bet lemme download it

 

[Mambae]

If you have an iphone the photone app is great for checking lighting. Just need a piece of paper over the lens to diffuse. Its not exact exact, but its definitely enough to get you in the ballpark

how should i put the paper over the phone?

 

[Stokes]

how should i put the paper over the phone?

I cut about a 1” strip of white paper and wrap it around your phone, and tape it at the back. Make sure you select the led setting.

Glad youre downloading it, proper lighting is crucial, especially for flower

 

[Mambae]

I cut about a 1” strip of white paper and wrap it around your phone, and tape it at the back. Make sure you select the led setting.

Glad youre downloading it, proper lighting is crucial, especially for flower

i did it but it says i gotta pay for the led setting is there an app that does it for free? or what setting in the app is close in measurement to led

 

[Stokes]

i did it but it says i gotta pay for the led setting is there an app that does it for free? or what setting in the app is close in measurement to led

How much is it? I thought it was only $5, i got it a few years back tho



Im looking at your chart and @38% intensity you should have a par reading of ~305, which is kinda on the low end for veg

 

[Mambae]

How much is it? I thought it was only $5, i got it a few years back tho



Im looking at your chart and @38% intensity you should have a par reading of ~305, which is kinda on the low end for veg

yea its like 6.49 but all my money is in crypto lmaooo. what chart? can u send it ova?

 

[Stokes]

yea its like 6.49 but all my money is in crypto lmaooo. what chart? can u send it ova?

Im looking for a better one. Keep in mind the chart is shown at full intensity, so your value would be a percentage of that. I also took the highest value at the center of the light, which isnt precise, because your plants would be offset towards the sides

 

[Mambae]

Im looking for a better one. Keep in mind the chart is shown at full intensity, so your value would be a percentage of that. I also took the highest value at the center of the light, which isnt precise, because your plants would be offset towards the sides

ohh that one i see. i also moved the lights up a little bit from "19 to "21.5 at 40%

 

[Stokes]

This one is a little clearer. It includes 3 different heights.

 

[Mambae]

This one is a little clearer. It includes 3 different heights.

View attachment 2164359

Awesome thanks for the help man

 

[Stokes]

Awesome thanks for the help man

No problem

 

[Imzzaudae]

After having another real close look at this plant. I am still seeing a few blisters on a few leaves.
This is caused buy very intense light. So is the overall light plant colour and burned leaf edges.
You need to stop playing around with camera light meters and learn to read your plant.
It's to hot where it's sitting, you need to move the plant to a corner where the light is not so intense.

A couple of leaf edges look Nitrogen burned. This is standard when starting in Ocean Forest / hot soil.

I do not see any signs of Calcium deficiency, Magnesium or any other deficiency, . None!

I'm thinking a very slow deep watering is in order. At least a litre of water 1 cup at a time with 10 min between
so the medium has a chance to soak up the water. Then do not water again until the medium is quite dry.
Almost to the point of the plant wilting. Check it daily but this could take a full week with a plant this size.
Then do the same again.

I don't remember seeing anything about your water or fertilizer solution P.H.
You should be watching this. Ball park ether 6 to 6.5 works well in this medium.

 

[Stokes]

After having another real close look at this plant. I am still seeing a few blisters on a few leaves.
This is caused buy very intense light. So is the overall light plant colour and burned leaf edges.
You need to stop playing around with camera light meters and learn to read your plant.
It's to hot where it's sitting, you need to move the plant to a corner where the light is not so intense.

A couple of leaf edges look Nitrogen burned. This is standard when starting in Ocean Forest / hot soil.

I do not see any signs of Calcium deficiency, Magnesium or any other deficiency, . None!

I'm thinking a very slow deep watering is in order. At least a litre of water 1 cup at a time with 10 min between
so the medium has a chance to soak up the water. Then do not water again until the medium is quite dry.
Almost to the point of the plant wilting. Check it daily but this could take a full week with a plant this size.
Then do the same again.

I don't remember seeing anything about your water or fertilizer solution P.H.
You should be watching this. Ball park ether 6 to 6.5 works well in this medium.

Leaf edges are potassium.
Excess nitrogen will cause deep green color, leaf clawing and downward cupping. Possible waxy sheen.
Ocean forest is not hot, i grew in it exclusively for my first two years. Its a preamended soil, it will become hot when you feed it. It will possibly start showing magnesium issues in week 3, potassium and calcium deficiencies around week 2 or 3 of flower.

This is either a watering issue or a root issue. That is a 1 gallon pot, maybe 2 gallon. It will need watering at least twice a week. If you water once a week, your microbes will die. Your roots will die. Plant will focus on root repair instead of vegetative growth.

Par meters measure light. An actual measure of it. If you raise the light and it fixed it, it wouldnt be because of the light, it would be because it required less nutrients because of inadequate lighting.



But whatever. Go ahead and listen to this dude. Shit, take the light out altogether. Good luck

 

[Mambae]

After having another real close look at this plant. I am still seeing a few blisters on a few leaves.
This is caused buy very intense light. So is the overall light plant colour and burned leaf edges.
You need to stop playing around with camera light meters and learn to read your plant.
It's to hot where it's sitting, you need to move the plant to a corner where the light is not so intense.

A couple of leaf edges look Nitrogen burned. This is standard when starting in Ocean Forest / hot soil.

I do not see any signs of Calcium deficiency, Magnesium or any other deficiency, . None!

I'm thinking a very slow deep watering is in order. At least a litre of water 1 cup at a time with 10 min between
so the medium has a chance to soak up the water. Then do not water again until the medium is quite dry.
Almost to the point of the plant wilting. Check it daily but this could take a full week with a plant this size.
Then do the same again.

I don't remember seeing anything about your water or fertilizer solution P.H.
You should be watching this. Ball park ether 6 to 6.5 works well in this medium.

yea i moved the light up more and turned down the intensity thanks for the tips. im thinkin its too much nutrients mixed with the light intensity. im using cronk liquid nutrients grow, cal mag, and micro mixed with the FFOF. Going to water with 6.2 ph water with no liquid fert and se how she reacts

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

Leaf edges are potassium.

Huh? Lots of issues affect leaflet edges.

Excess nitrogen will cause deep green color, leaf clawing and downward cupping. Possible waxy sheen.

Yes, but nitrogen deficiency was what I mentioned. So, I don't believe it's nitrogen toxicity.

Ocean forest is not hot, i grew in it exclusively for my first two years. Its a preamended soil, it will become hot when you feed it. It will possibly start showing magnesium issues in week 3, potassium and calcium deficiencies around week 2 or 3 of flower.

I think many growers would say FFOF is hot. That's somewhat relative, of course, but it's surely hotter than FFHF, to which it is often compared. It's generally agreed that plants started in FFOF don't need additional nutrients while they're young.

This is either a watering issue or a root issue. That is a 1 gallon pot, maybe 2 gallon. It will need watering at least twice a week. If you water once a week, your microbes will die. Your roots will die. Plant will focus on root repair instead of vegetative growth.

It could be a watering problem. It doesn't look like it to me if it's nutrient lockout, though. Rather than watering on a schedule, a better method is to lift the pots and become skilled at knowing when the pot is light enough to need water. I call it the dry-and-drench method. Many growers recommend it.

Par meters measure light. An actual measure of it. If you raise the light and it fixed it, it wouldnt be because of the light, it would be because it required less nutrients because of inadequate lighting.

They do indeed measure light, but that isn't always helpful. You're right if you're saying that the various growth factors all need to be in optimal ranges for optimal results. Reducing light intensity, however, would be helpful if it lets the plant recover. Many growers, me included, prefer to let the plant be the light meter. Because plants vary so much in their needs, conforming to a textbook-type standard can fail. There's nothing better than learning to read the plants. It takes time to learn, though.

But whatever. Go ahead and listen to this dude. Shit, take the light out altogether. Good luck

It's always up to the grower to decide. We give them our opinions. They might believe us. They might not.

 

[Stokes]

Huh? Lots of issues affect leaflet edges.


Yes, but nitrogen deficiency was what I mentioned. So, I don't believe it's nitrogen toxicity.


I think many growers would say FFOF is hot. That's somewhat relative, of course, but it's surely hotter than FFHF, to which it is often compared. It's generally agreed that plants started in FFOF don't need additional nutrients while they're young.


It could be a watering problem. It doesn't look like it to me if it's nutrient lockout, though. Rather than watering on a schedule, a better method is to lift the pots and become skilled at knowing when the pot is light enough to need water. I call it the dry-and-drench method. Many growers recommend it.


They do indeed measure light, but that isn't always helpful. You're right if you're saying that the various growth factors all need to be in optimal ranges for optimal results. Reducing light intensity, however, would be helpful if it lets the plant recover. Many growers, me included, prefer to let the plant be the light meter. Because plants vary so much in their needs, conforming to a textbook-type standard can fail. There's nothing better than learning to read the plants. It takes time to learn, though.


It's always up to the grower to decide. We give them our opinions. They might believe us. They might not.

Oops. Either way, you could probably run ocean forest an entire grow without feeding nitrogen, if it is heavy in anything it would be nitrogen. Id lean towards magnesium.

Nothing wrong with reading plants, i still do it when timing my feedings in soil. But if you exclusively rely on the plant to tell you what is already wrong, you’re a reactive grower. The problem is already there. If you plan your environment on data backed by science then you leave little room for error.

I dont even need a par meter to tell you that light is not cranking out more than 350 par to the top of those plants. Its a budget light. 18” @ 38% would be fine for seedlings. If there were light stress, it would have to have been when it was a seedling, and probably with the light lower

 

[Imzzaudae]

I think you mean well Stokes. but I have to ask if you really believe what your saying. What a load of bat dung.

 

[Stokes]

I think you mean well Stokes. but I have to ask if you really believe what your saying. What a load of bat dung.

I have diaries on several sites, several different led lights, every type of medium, every type of nutrient from organ dry to liquid chemical. Indoors/outdoors. Doesnt matter. Find a plant with too little or too much light on a single leaf. Go.




Sorry to tread on your territory Mr. Cervantes. Ive never killed a plant

How the fuck you struggle in veg bro, then tell me i dont know what im doing. Outdoor grower trying to tell me about LEDS.

 

[Imzzaudae]

Actually I'm not above sharing my mistakes with members. That's why I shared this. We all make mistakes now and again.
Do you really think pulling this up in order to prove some point like I don't know what I'm talking about is going to prove anything Really.

Although I don't share a lot of my indoor, I do grow both indoor and out and I'm pretty good at both.
Like it or not. I believe that your offering bad advice in relation to this post and about 90% of what you posted today is rubbish.

 

[Stokes]

Actually I'm not above sharing my mistakes with members. That's why I shared this. We all make mistakes now and again.
Do you really think pulling this up in order to prove some point like I don't know what I'm talking about is going to prove anything Really.

Although I don't share a lot of my indoor, I do grow both indoor and out and I'm pretty good at both.
Like it or not. I believe that your offering bad advice in relation to this post and about 90% of what you posted today is rubbish.

Elaborate on what was rubbish.

Then tell me how I can manage to start from seed and harvest without issue by doing exactly what I posted.

Im not the best grower, im not the most knowledgeable grower, but i know theres a reason why companies post par charts, i know that allowing soil to go bone dry is bad for roots and microbiology, i also know that in veg a light at 18”-20” for a 200W light at 38% is perfectly fine for that LED. Why? Because most of the ones in that price range use mostly the exact same diodes, and are probably made in the same factory.

Go look at Mars, spider farmer. Vivosun, Phlizon, and any other lights in the same category and compare their recommendations.