Week4Bytch ... What's He Up Too?

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ganzigunnu

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so was it caco3 buildup or just overwatering?
im growing very similar thing happened to me. i re-dialed the blumats now it's drier and new white pistils coming out. I also added some epsom salts to the reservoir. what is your tap water specs?
 
Week4Bytch

Week4Bytch

The Cannabis Karen (I'm a Bytch)
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so was it caco3 buildup or just overwatering?
im growing very similar thing happened to me. i re-dialed the blumats now it's drier and new white pistils coming out. I also added some epsom salts to the reservoir. what is your tap water specs?
I have very hard water but ruled that out for the healthy pot. I'm using two different products to counter the lime (calcium) build up. This lime (calcium ) build up bounds to the soil and is inaccessible to the plants unfortunately.

The first product is Drip Clean. It's highly recommended for organic soil. It breaks down salts and cleans the reservoir lines. A must have. 1 mg per gallon is all that is needed. Maybe half a milligram.

The big one is the use of Amino Acids. Preferably plant-based amino acids. (I'm using a fish based amino acid right now but that will change soon) These amino acids break down the unusable calcium ions into usable ions for the plant usage. Worth looking into.

Bottom line, the trouble pot was over saturated with water big time. I dialed down the Blumat almost two whole cycles to get it right. I was way off. If you really want to dial it in, you'll need to get the Blumat mBar moisture meter. Not cheap but worth every penny.
 
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ganzigunnu

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wow, that's great information i ve read elemental sulphur or langbeinite helps with caco3 buildup.
im growing with biotabs line in airpots and blumats, some plants always get dark brown spots and slow flowering especially the overwatered ones. i finally get that its from the tap water. it's 0.43 ec but most of it is caco3 instead of soluable calcium.

there is a great thread about this
https://www.invalid.com/t/calcium-carbonate-caco3.1066970/page-4

i checked drip clean consists of potassium oxide and phosphoric acid
this product is not available in my country.
I had two autoflower runs with blumats, next time i will definitely use something to prevent the salt buildup.
 
Week4Bytch

Week4Bytch

The Cannabis Karen (I'm a Bytch)
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wow, that's great information i ve read elemental sulphur or langbeinite helps with caco3 buildup.
im growing with biotabs line in airpots and blumats, some plants always get dark brown spots and slow flowering especially the overwatered ones. i finally get that its from the tap water. it's 0.43 ec but most of it is caco3 instead of soluable calcium.

there is a great thread about this

i checked drip clean consists of potassium oxide and phosphoric acid
this product is not available in my country.
I had two autoflower runs with blumats, next time i will definitely use something to prevent the salt buildup.
Kratos015 is a very knowledgeable man. It's the sulfur in the Langbeinite that bonds with the calcium. Just be careful using it because to much of the magnesium (that's also in the Langbeinite) can block calcium (if you over do it) just by itself. Use it sparingly. I looked it up, real quick, on how sulfur interacts with calcium and kinda understand what they're saying ..

"The calcium atoms become cations when reacted with sulfur atoms to form calcium sulfide. Calcium sulfide is an example of an ionic compound which means that it is made from a cation and an anion."

Sounds like what the Amino Acids do. I'd have to dive deep into this to really know for sure. (Another rabbit hole)

now I'm confused which of these do I use? If your already into a system where it provides almost everything, magnesium, potassium, for example, then the Langbeinite can tip the scale unfavourably. That's when I'd look into maybe the Amino Acids. And double check if your system has Amino Acids as some do already. You can overdo it with anything really and throw the balance of a good soil. Balance is key.

(An alternative for Drip Clean is hypochlorous acid, that was recommended to me from the Blumat distributors here in Colorado. They preferred Drip Clean but also mentioned that hypochlorous acid was a good alternative).

A good read if your wanting to get deep into Soil Biology in layman's terms is The Intelligent Gardener, by Steve Solomon. I've only skipped through a few pages and it gets a must read stamp from me. Just the chapter "Remineralization " alone is worth the buy of this book. Cation is pronounced CAT- ion... anions is pronounced An-ion, and the chapter demonstrates with table salt (as an example ) how these two interact from each other. Some cool shit.
PXL 20240607 233724932
 
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Week4Bytch

Week4Bytch

The Cannabis Karen (I'm a Bytch)
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Yikes and that tent is in the garage? I am in the desert too. Mine would be dead.
I'm lucky that these two strains do well in this kind of weather, or they can withstand this kind of weather. I have a Home Depot evaporative cooler going 24/7. Helps cool the garage and keeps the humidity close to ideal at the same time. But I agree, sucks growing in the garage right now. I'll have to plan this out better next year, end it in April more abouts.
 
Putthataway

Putthataway

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I'm lucky that these two strains do well in this kind of weather, or they can withstand this kind of weather. I have a Home Depot evaporative cooler going 24/7. Helps cool the garage and keeps the humidity close to ideal at the same time. But I agree, sucks growing in the garage right now. I'll have to plan this out better next year, end it in April more abouts.
I have cars in my garage and have thought about a split unit for preservation aspect. I have noticed a few along my street. They never appear operational for some reason.
 
Week4Bytch

Week4Bytch

The Cannabis Karen (I'm a Bytch)
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I have cars in my garage and have thought about a split unit for preservation aspect. I have noticed a few along my street. They never appear operational for some reason.
Your talking about my neighbor.. 😂 because the electricity bill is insane this time of year. So most likely I'll be done with the garage grow by end of June. Call it till September - October before growing out in there again. I have the little 4x2 inside to hold me over till then. Just have no idea what to grow inside right now.

Cars in my garage... nice, sounds like a decent sized garage there @Putthataway
 
Week4Bytch

Week4Bytch

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Found something on the Net that I just NERdED out on Big time.. Sort of understand it, it was posted in 2012

Hello, people!

“it is a fact that cal mag is necessary for optimum growth. Just ask any commercial or professional grower.”

Well, yes, that's true, but I am a professional grower and I don't use any calcium or magnesium supplements because I don't have to. That's because I use a nutrient that already contains more than adequate amounts of each and I run ph at levels that allow for sufficient uptake. In the greenhouse hydro industry growing tomatoes with drip irrigation in perlite culture many operations use bulk nutrient preparations that are dry and come in two parts. One part contains everything but calcium nitrate, the other part is calcium nitrate. They keep them separate to prevent magnesium sulfate and calcium nitrate from interacting. Just as the gh flora series, techniflora nutes and many others do, liquid or dry. The one part flora nova gets away with everything in one bottle as it is a colloidal suspension that separates during storage, thus preventing the interaction. However, there are many nutrient packages that don't contain sufficient cal-mag. Pure blend pro is a classic example. You absolutely must use cal-mag with it to avoid disaster.

I am currently using maxibloom for flowering. It is a one part product that does not have any reactions until you put it into solution in water. It contains ample amounts of cal-mag.

The calcium/magnesium deficiency most folks run into eventually using hydro nutes is caused by ph being maintained at levels that don't allow for decent uptake. Not by the nutrients being low on either calcium or magnesium.

I know I run the risk here of opening up a whole can of worms on proper cannabis hydro ph, but here goes anyway.

Most of the ph charts you see are incorrect or misleading. Most would have you believe that if you don't run at a specific ph you are running the risk of lockout of one element or the other. Some depict uptake of elements at different ph points that don't even overlap with their recommendation for ideal ph, usually at around 5.8.

The truth is that there is no such thing as ideal ph and there are no finite points where lockouts occur. Every application is a compromise. However, the 5.8 recommendation is right in the middle of the range where you get the least calcium and magnesium uptake. You are still getting some, but usually not enough. You either have to get above 6.0-6.1 or below 5.5 to get adequate uptake of calcium or magnesium. I believe that above 5.5 phosphorus availability starts diminishing so I start my input solution at 5.2. As nutrients are used and evaporation/transpiration occur the ph will climb. The girls love it and show no symptoms of deficiency.

So, if you are using ro or distilled water and your nutrient shows calcium and magnesium on the label try running your ph between 5.1 and 5.4 for a while and see what happens. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

If you are using ro water it is probable that you have very hard water from your tap and you decided to use ro water to solve the problem. If your tap water is over 200 ppm at the .5 conversion (milwaukee meters), you probably have too much calcium in your water. The calcium in your tap water plus the calcium in your nutrient solution can add up to an over abundance of calcium. An excess of calcium can cause a magnesium deficiency. You see the mag deficiency first and you think you need more magnesium so you add cal-mag thereby aggravating the situation. You can run into a similar scenario adding epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) to your solution. Too much of one nutrient can cause problems with uptake of another.

If your tap water is below around 150 ppm and doesn't contain more than 70 ppm calcium (only a water analysis can tell you this) try correcting ph to 5.2 for a while. With Ro water, if your nutes show Mg and Ca on the label, try 5.2 for a while.
Or you can blend ro water and tap water in proportions that get your tds below 100 ppm, then try 5.2 for a while.

My tap water is slightly over 200 ppm most of the time, so I blend tap 40%/ro 60% and end up with a reading of around 80 ppm before nutes are added. I chose this ratio because of the ph buffering capability inherent in the tap water mixed with ro at this ratio allows me to get away without using ph adjusters, either up or down. 2 gals tap plus 3 gals ro plus 2 level tablespoons maxibloom gives me 5.2 at around 950 ppm every time. I have visually perfect plants showing no signs excess or deficiency.
 
Bilber

Bilber

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Awesome read! P.H. has alot to do with everything....since phing, I've 🛑ed using CaliMAGic.....I just needed to find out where the ph was.....make the adjustment and the ph pen and up and down and CaliMAGic are kinda put away....

For such a little component, ph, it sure as hell can cause alot of damage!
 
Week4Bytch

Week4Bytch

The Cannabis Karen (I'm a Bytch)
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Not sure if it’s on my end but I couldnt play your video (first one). Looks fire though!!!! : )
First video is dead link maybe. I uploaded a smaller file to here directly just under that post. I don't know why YouTube keeps blocking my videos, I uploaded as NOT FOR KIDS and they still cock block my vids 😡
 
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