Please help me save these!!!

  • Thread starter WickedMichelle
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Beachbumm

Beachbumm

400
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yep sure thing buddy,..
geezus🤦🏼🤦🏼🤦🏼🤦🏼
100% agree, there's no such thing as hot soil, from what I've seen there is occasionally hot clumps in soil because the grower didn't mix it well enough, or at all, & if the seedling or a small clone's roots hit it it can causes issues, but there's no such thing as hot soil.
 
WickedMichelle

WickedMichelle

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The watermelon looks like it's bouncing back already. The royal purple not yet. But she took a day longer to sprout so I still have hope.

I put a security cam in there so I can keep an eye on them without opening the tent and while I am at work.
 
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Asmodeus

Asmodeus

555
243
Theres nothing wrong with fox farm soils. My seedlings love happy frog. When I up pot I go with ocean forest. I never understood why people mix the two.

OP, looks like they're liking the new environment already! Now just give em some time and relax, you're gonna worry yourself to death lol! There is such a thing as over mothering 🙂
 
Newty

Newty

839
143
That can be me LOL.

I have a wifi security cam in there.... it has night vision hahahaha.
Make sure it's the type of night vision that isn't going to hermie your plants, also if there's any other status lights make sure those are also off.
 
Z

Zab

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Make sure it's the type of night vision that isn't going to hermie your plants, also if there's any other status lights make sure those are also off.
Do you think that would cause the seedlings to herm
 
GNick55

GNick55

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while your trying safe these why don’t ya start a couple more,.. personally i think both of these won’t be worth the effort in the end if they make it passed this,..
you need to lay off on watering too frequently, don’t be afraid to let it dry out!,..
it’s bullshit about not letting organic soil dry out too much,..
 
Newty

Newty

839
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Do you think that would cause the seedlings to herm

It's not going to hermie the plants man. It's not in flower, plus a lot of the hermie hysteria is old school 2000s forum rumors.
Odds are the OP is going to use the cameras for the entire grow, not just the seedling stage.

I've just seen talk of it before and people who had multiple runs of hermies after installing cameras, odds are it was genetics or other stress but I figure better be safe then sorry.
 
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Phyto

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I just googled it Guess what ,,, yes there is
Hot soil can cause your plants to become dehydrated and struggle for survival. If you notice your plants are wilting or changing color, your substrate might be part of the issue. Heat stress can limit your plants’ ability to grow and develop, which might even cause their death.

What is Hot Soil and How to Fix It​

Updated: 17 February 2024Spenser
Avatar for Spenser

5 min. read
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hot soil in a cannabis pot

Hot soil is a phrase that gets thrown around a lot in the cannabis community, but what does it mean? It does not refer to the temperature or the visual beauty of your medium. Instead, hot soil references an excess of nutrients and additives. This excess can create a range of different problems with your crop. Unfortunately, hot soil is a very common problem that beginners run into. So, let’s learn why soil can easily become hot and how you can fix it!

  1. What is hot soil?
  2. What happens to cannabis plants when they’re overfed?
  3. How to fix hot soil
  4. The opposite of hot soil is kind soil?

What is hot soil?​

Hot soil refers to soil that is overly amended or fertilized, causing a variety of issues in one’s garden. Many beginners run into this problem because they are overzealous and end up giving their plants more fertilizer than they can metabolize; this phenomenon is also called “nutrient or ‘nute’ burn.” This can be caused by over-amending soil or feeding liquid fertilizers at too high of a concentration. You won’t be able to tell if the soil is hot by looking at it or feeling it, you will have to read your plants and look for symptoms that indicate the soil is too enriched for them.


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What happens to cannabis plants when they’re overfed?​

Cannabis plants will show signs of being overfed rather fast. Tip burn is the first sign that the medium is too hot for them. This visual symptom displays on the tips of the plant’s leaves. The tips will turn a yellow or brown color depending on the severity.
Burned tips on a marijuana leaf
Burned tips on a marijuana leaf
Another symptom of hot soil is seeing signs of nutrient deficiencies in your plants. It might seem counterintuitive that soil with too many nutrients will cause nutrient deficiencies, but it’s possible due to lockout. When there is too much of a certain nutrient, it prevents your plants from metabolizing other nutrients. An example of this would be an excess of calcium causing phosphorus-like deficiencies such as purpling of stems and yellow and brown spots on leaves.
There are many signs that your soil is too hot, and recognizing them is important. However, knowing how to fix it is equally as important.

How to fix hot soil​

Fixing hot soil is relatively easy and should be done as soon as possible to prevent further damage to your plants. The easiest option is to water your plants heavily to wash the excess nutrients out of your medium. You should water till a large amount of runoff has bled out the bottom of your pot. Doing this type of flush weekly can help prevent the possibility of your soil becoming too hot, especially if you are using salt-based fertilizer.
If flushing with straight water isn’t solving the issue, try using different products that can aid in flushing the nutrients out. A simple product every grower should have is some kind of yucca extract. Yucca will make your water “wetter” to flush your medium out more efficiently and add other beneficial hormones to your plants.
Products containing enzymes will also help make your soil less hot because they will help break down nutrients and allow them to be flushed out of the medium. A more severe case of hot soil may require a more serious product, such as hypochlorous acid, to remove the excess nutrients.
Yucca extract in bottled form
A gallon bottle of Yucca extract
The best strategy to fix hot soil is being proactive and taking steps to prevent your soil from becoming too hot. Weekly flushes with plain water are a good insurance policy to prevent excess nutrients from building up. If you are using bottled nutrients, especially salt-based, use only the lowest recommended dilution rates at first to see how your plants respond. After that, slowly increase the concentration till you find the sweet spot.
A mixture of HF and OF would not be considered a hot soil. I plant in straight OF all the time, no issues.
 
Sunin

Sunin

192
63
while your trying safe these why don’t ya start a couple more,.. personally i think both of these won’t be worth the effort in the end if they make it passed this,..
you need to lay off on watering too frequently, don’t be afraid to let it dry out!,..
it’s bullshit about not letting organic soil dry out too much,..

That's a very good idea. And next time if you want two you should sprout five.
She's already attached 😉
I always keep underdogs and survivors. Too much of a journey together for discarding like trash 😊 so I will keep my fingers crossed for both although that royal looks pretty much defeated....
 
PianoStan

PianoStan

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Wow. I can't believe your plants went through that. I hope that they live. But @GNick55 has a point, even if they do, they might be severely stunted, and very low yield in the end.

I gotta be honest. I think that part of the problem was the constant monitoring of the plants. It's all well and good to talk about humidity and vpd and light intensity and heat until the cows come home. However, the reality is that weed grows just fine in every climate from tropical rainforests to deserts and even temperate conditions such as experienced here in most of America. The only climate that weed doesn't really like too much are the artic tundras.

When they burst through the soil your plants want to live, and have everything that they need to live. Messing with them constantly can have detrimental effects.

Does the soil that you use have mycorrhizal in it? If not, write that down, and mix it as directed into the soil for your next grow. It's a beneficial fungus that helps order and increase solubility of nutrients.

I'm at home pretty much all the time, and I check on my tent twice a day. First thing in the morning to make sure all is running properly, and at the same time every afternoon when I update my journal. Otherwise, I just let the plant get on with the business of being a plant. No cameras. I messed with humidity until the humidifier fused my carbon filter solid. And then I said, "Fuck it, the humidity will be what it will be!" Eventually, the plant set its own humidity just fine. You've seen the pics of my plant. I'm not saying I'm some master grower, but I did something right! lol

I know that you got that phone app, and I don't. If I did, though, the ONLY alert I would give it permission to send me was in case of power failure.

If you want my opinion, here's what I think happened:
I think that your constant misting started your troubles. When the plant was tiny with its cotyledons still on, and the first start of the fan leaves the ability of individual water molecules to be absorbed directly from the leaf surface, and fill the capillaries was enough to keep the leaves hydrated. But it also kinda taught the plant to look there for water. This temporarily caused those tiny roots to lag in water and nutrient absorption. Which likely caused the very first hints of yellow that you saw.

Then misting reinflates the leaves some, but interferes with nutrient absorption. Witholding water gets the nutrients going, but the plant isn't grabbing water through the roots at optimal levels and the wilting occurs.

Everything else has spiraled from there as you tried to fix the problem that you saw. While continuing to mist them. It's not unlikely that if your plants went 12 hours without you looking at them, the very first bit of yellowing that you pounced on as an issue might have passed normally and never caused any trouble to begin with.

That's just my opinion, anyway; I hope that your plants survive. Fingers crossed. Good luck.
 
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Sunin

Sunin

192
63
It's hard for beginners to relax ☕
It is a valid point above. misting is good in first two-three days. after that you should swap to proper watering procedures that will help plant develop root system and regulate excess through leaves and start doing so on the edges of pot keeping dry/wet cycles. I mist 1/week as in veg I am feeding partially by foliar but doing that I always keep one or two full days between foliar and root feed. Plants handle both different way 😉 and always just before light off and in dry cycle.

I think it was a combination of taking advice of too low humidity, too much misting, too big compression in crappy pots that created overwatered and dry patches and too intensive LED light.
If one of them (or both :D) survive it deserves a chance 🤟
 
WickedMichelle

WickedMichelle

235
63
while your trying safe these why don’t ya start a couple more,.. personally i think both of these won’t be worth the effort in the end if they make it passed this,..
I thought of that. I have 3 other seeds I can sprout. All different strains though. I hate to toss these, the watermelon is bouncing back, the purple queen not so much. 20.00 shot to hell if I toss them. :(

Where are the icons?!?!?!?!?!

Make sure it's the type of night vision that isn't going to hermie your plants, also if there's any other status lights make sure those are also off.
So it's only the lights I would need to worry about with the camera? I do have the lights on the humidifier set to off... There are no lights on the camera, I did a test where the camera was on and I looked in the tent window to make sure that there was no light. I mean the camera itself should have anything in it to hurt the plants... my fan and lights are WiFi so that should not be an issue.

I gotta be honest. I think that part of the problem was the constant monitoring of the plants. It's all well and good to talk about humidity and vpd and light intensity and heat until the cows come home. However, the reality is that weed grows just fine in every climate from tropical rainforests to deserts and even temperate conditions such as experienced here in most of America. The only climate that weed doesn't really like too much are the artic tundras.
I am going to agree with this.... all my problems started when I asked about keeping them from getting too tall and skinny. I moved the lights closer, I added a humidifier, I started messing with VPD and not doing it right....

However, the reality is that weed grows just fine in every climate from tropical rainforests to deserts and even temperate conditions such as experienced here in most of America.
I will agree with this as well. I use to grow in my dining room, all natural light and they grew fine. Shitty weed but the plants grew even with my cats eating the bottom leaves. The reason for the tent was to control the environment and get a potent grow that tastes good and not like "homegrown". Lights, nutrients... do it right.

I also think those peat pots were a HUGE mistake! Maybe part of the problem was the plants roots were growing into the peat. Maybe some were all the way through and exposed. The royal purple were really into the peat. I think tearing them away was more stress than it's little body can handle. The watermelon was not so bad. There were a couple small roots that were attached but they came off with minimal tearing. Could be why it's bouncing back. Bottom leaves still yellow but the top is looking good.

I am still hopeful for the purple queen but she is not looking good. She was not as expensive as the watermelon, got them on sale. She was doing so well too, I cannot believe she is not bouncing back. Sprouted a day after the watermelon and grew much faster,

Either the mix of the HF and OF is better, or these plastic pots are holding moisture much better. I transplanted before noon yesterday and gave a good watering. They are still really moist at 5:49 AM, lights on at 10:30 PM last night - too early to do math LOL. The peat pots would have been dried out already. I think that too could be part of the problem.... could not regulate proper soil moisture in those.

Ok, I think I will take the advice to start the other seeds. Watch, I will end up with 5 plants and not enough room. HAHAHA. So disappointed. That purple queen looked good and so did the watermelon. Very pretty buds. I have a critical kush, og kush, and sherbet queen I can start. 3 seeds and 2 pots left. I think I will wait until Friday, I may need one of those pots if one does not make it.
 
WickedMichelle

WickedMichelle

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63
It is a valid point above. misting is good in first two-three days.
That was about the extent of the leaf misting. When I mentioned misting there after it was the top of the soil I was misting and not the leaves. Having the lights closer with water on the leaves could burn them. The soil was too dry to pour water so I had to pre-soak the soil by misting it. Then the water would pour in and not run off.
 
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